Giarratana onions
I’ve known about and appreciated the delicious sweet jumbo-sized Giarratana onion from Sicily for a long time. A few years ago, traveling outside Noto with Vito, after a visit with Corrado Assenza at Caffé Sicilia (worth a pilgrimage)I spotted a truck selling large bags of Giarratana onions and braids of Nubia garlic, another Sicilian product I adore. We stopped and I scored, a bag for Vito, one for me and a few garlic braids—cool gastro-souvenir gifts. Once home I hung a garlic braid in my kitchen fireplace and began to cook the onions. Braised as a condiment for pasta. Sliced thick and baked with extra virgin and breadcrumbs or sesame seeds, anther local product. I was in love, found a source online and have ordered ever since.
Partanna onion
This year my great friend Vito Planeta stopped by with a wealth of Sicilian specialties—wine, cheese, anchovies, homemade tomato sauce, lemons, a cool fava bean snack and a box of Partanna onions, red skinned and huge. I treated them like the Giarratana with fantastic results. They’re a Slow Food presidium, but I haven’t had any luck finding a source.
Paglina onions
And then I found out about the Paglina onion, as large as the others. I asked Sicilian super-chef and friend Pino Cuttaia what he thought, he was enthusiastic, I got in touch with a group of producers, befriended them online, and I ordered from Sabrina at Chedduci. Vito was going to be in their area (unfortunately without me, I’m staying closer to home for now), got in touch and came home with a fancy box with Sicilian cart decorations and the biggest size Paglina onions. I was impressed with the onions and in love with the box.
I asked Pino for his favorite recipe. Cipuddata, cipollata, is a braised onion all-purpose condiment. I love it on bread, with pasta, saucing fish or grilled meats. And only 4 ingredients—onions, extra virgin, vinegar and honey. Another terrific idea is for baked onion slices topped with breadcrumbs or sesame seeds and extra virgin. Or honey and vinegar marinated onions, for salads or simple vegetables. No need for actual recipes. And if you can’t find the wonderful Giarretana, Partanna or Paglina onions, use what you have. And dream of Sicilia.
Cipuddata, Cipollata
Baked Onion Steaks
Cipuddata, Cipollata: Sauté plenty of sliced onions with extra virgin, slowly, over low heat. When barely browned season with salt and pepper, add honey and vinegar, raise heat for a few minutes to combine flavors.
Baked Onion Steaks: Preheat oven to 350 F., 175 C. Peel onions, cut each in half and then into slices, around 1”, 3 cm thick. Place in a layer on a parchment paper lined baking sheet, season lightly with salt and pepper, drizzle with extra virgin, sprinkle with breadcrumbs or sesame seeds. Serve hot or at room temperature
Sweet and Sour Raw Onion: Slice onion thin, sprinkle with salt, add a spoonful or two of honey and a splash of wine or apple vinegar. Mix well and marinate for at least 30 minutes.
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