Friuli and Veneto

Vito and I agreed we needed a trip north, Friuli and Veneto, to visit old friends and make new ones. It’s been way too long. And I wanted some new entries on the travel map of my website. We began at the Zidarich winery in the Carso area, invited for dinner, welcomed by Ben and his wife Nevenka, joined by winemaker Sandi Skerk, stone mason Marco Zidarich (not related to Ben) and Riccardo Illy. We started, as usual, with prosciutto from my favorite producer Osvaldo, Ben grilled a wild sea bass in the fireplace and showed off my gift of red suede grilling gloves and we drank lots of his wines, including new entry ZI-DA, a sparkling red with the spirit of Lambrusco. And then retired to Skerlj, a nearby agriturismo for the evening.

The next morning we shopped, then headed for Cormons to meet another great friend, Dante Bernardis, at Josko Sirk’s osteria. I needed Josko’s superb grape (not wine) vinegar. (In the US you can buy it through Gustiamo .) We ate more Osvaldo prosciutto wrapped around super breadsticks, purchased vinegar, then drove to San Daniele, the heart of Friuli’s pork production and the Hotel San Daniele, with Dante as our guide.

We had a view of snow-peaked Alps as we navigated to a cheese maker (no sign but frequented by locals) who specialized in a local cheese I’d never tasted, Formadi Salat, Formaggio Salato. Of course I shopped. Then continued to lunch at Trattoria Ai Cacciatori, perfect, rustic regional cooking at its best with a massive collection of Buon Riccordo plates. I fell in love with owner Danêl and his restaurant, and left with pitina and corn meal for polenta.

I was crazy about Dante when he had a wonderful restaurant, Blasut, in Lavariano, before he moved to Tuscany and worked for Dario Cecchini. Now he’s returned to Friuli, inspired by and supplied with meat from his great friend and master butcher.

I fell in love once again, at Al Cantinon, La Commedia di Dante. The bright red Berkel slicer awaited salumi—I was thrilled with something I’d never seen, lardo arrotolato, 7 strips of pork fatback, pressed, tied together, cured and then sliced, from producer Cantina Zuanon.

There were different menu choices, including a vegetarian option and grilled meats, but I wanted dinner in dialect, chose the Friuli menu and wasn’t disappointed.

Sant’Antonio Abate’s little Sistine chapel

I shopped the next morning at Cantina Zuanon, bought a smaller version (only 4 strips) of lardo arrotolato, visited the church of Sant’Antonio Abate for the fresco cycle known as the little Sistine chapel of Friuli, wanted to visit Villa Manin but it was covered with scaffolding—next time.

Vito suggested we have lunch at Da Guido, a restaurant outside Jesolo, on the Veneto coast, recommended by great friend Mauro Lorenzon who would join us. I’m willing to meet him anywhere since he knows more about wine than anyone I’ve ever met, never spits, always entertains and likes the same kind of restaurants that I do. Good idea.

Owner Andrea Fasan offered a glass of sparkling wine and baccalà mantecato, whipped salt cod, I asked and was given a tour of the kitchen and Andrea pointed out lively local seafood and the charcoal grill. I knew it was going to be a fantastic lunch. And it was. Mantis shrimp, soft shelled crabs, langoustines, razor clams, simply prepared, simply fantastic. We drank Mauro’s wine. I’m already dreaming of my return. But came home with plenty of bounty to keep me busy.

Explore Friuli Venezia-Giulio and Veneto on the map

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Explore Friuli Venezia-Giulio and Veneto on the map

Assistant F.W.

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