tomatoes

Fabio's Tomato Aspic

Fabio Picchi, owner and chef of the restaurant Cibrèo in Florence, cooks like a Florentine granny with a spicy palate. He takes full advantage of seasonal abundance from the Sant' Ambrogio market next to his restaurant. Fabio's recipes are wonderful but imprecise, quantities are vague, and I've got to pay strict attention so he doesn't skip an ingredient or a step. His refreshing summery tomato aspic is simple and uses traditional ingredients in a novel way, creating a spicy tomato sauce with a wiggle, barely jelled, more fun than a formal aspic. Bright red, speckled with herbs, zapped with chili and garlic, Fabio's appetizer is a far cry from the ladies-lunch image of conventional, transparent consommé aspics. Even my gelatin-hating husband and son love this dish. Double the extra virgin for more authentic Tuscan flavor.

Fabio's Tomato Aspic

Makes 6 servings

1 1/2 pounds plum tomatoes

1 envelope unflavored gelatin

3 tablespoons fresh minced basil or parsley or a combination of both

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 small, hot red pepper, minced or chili pepper flakes to taste

1 1 1/2 teaspoons salt

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil plus additional for garnish

Split the tomatoes in half and squeeze the halves into a sieve over a small bowl to remove juice and seeds. Press the mixture in the sieve and reserve the liquid and the pulp.

Puree the tomatoes in a food processor and pass through a food mill or strainer to remove the skins. (Or peel, seed, juice, and process tomatoes until smooth if you don't have a food mill.) Add the reserved juice to the pulp and measure 2 1/4 cups of tomato.

Sprinkle the gelatin over 1/4 cup tomato pulp in a medium-sized bowl, stir, and soak for 3 minutes. Heat 1/2 cup tomato pulp until boiling, add to the softened gelatin, and stir in to dissolve the gelatin. Add the rest of the tomato pulp, the basil, garlic, hot pepper, salt, and extra virgin olive oil. Divide the mixture into 6 lightly oiled 1/2-cup molds for at least 3 hours. Unmold and top with a drizzle of extra virgin.