Formaggio
A few of my favorites…
Mozzarella
In Italy mozzarella is made from water buffalo milk—the other stuff, from cow’s milk, is technically called fior di latte. The best is sold in its whey. The fresher the better. Superb mozzarella should never be refrigerated but should be eaten as soon as possible. Cook with it after a day or two. For the consortium party line go to www.mozzarelladop.it.
My favorite buffalo mozzarella producer is Vannulo, not far from Paestum, worth a pilgrimage for true mozzarella lovers. All products are made from their own buffalo milk, super-organic, unpasteurized, sold only on-site, never shipped which could compromise quality. Owners Tonino and Caterina Palmieri are obsessive about quality and they’ve been joined by daughters Teresa and Annalisa and son Nicola, each focusing on an aspect of the operation. Look for exceptional yogurt, gelato, chocolate, bread and leather goods made with buffalo hide. There’s a lunch only restaurant showcasing the Vannulo products as well as regional dishes, seasonal vegetables from their organic gardens. Other first rate mozzarella producers are Barlotti (with a simple lunchtime restaurant) and Casolaro who both make truly special ricotta.
Parmigiano-Reggiano
Parmigiano-Reggiano, the king of cheese, is firm-textured, straw-colored, nutty flavored, fragrant but never pungent, studded with crunchy mica-like granules, a product of the aging process, light years beyond the pre-grated stuff in the green can. Buy your Parmigiano-Reggiano in a two-pound chunk. Grate Parmigiano-Reggiano before using, microplaning yields fluff, not the same as grating. Break off chunks of Parmigiano-Reggiano and pair with traditional balsamic vinegar from Modena for the world’s easiest aperitivo snack. My favorite dairy to visit is Hombre, outside Modena. It’s an organic, closed cycle operation with an exceptional product, flanked by the Collezione Umberto Panini Motor Museum with a most attractive Maserati collection, motorcycles, bicycles, and tractors
Check out the official consortium party line.
Look for special Parmigano-Reggiano made from the milk of traditional local red cows. Or from the Modenese cows.
Sicily
My favorite dairy in Sicily is Passalacqua. I adore Salvatore Passalacqua and all his cheeses, both sheep and cow’s milk. But especially his Tuma Persa. I shave it like Parmigiano over many dishes.
I’ve been greatly informed by Roberto Rubino, who knows everything about the science and production of cheese. He founded ANFOSC, an association based on the concept of cheese made with milk from pastured cows. The site is in Italian but lists all members, producers and distributors.
Italian cheese ripeners I trust are Guffanti, Andrea Magi, Degust, and Carmasciando. Some export. Just ask.
In the US look at the websites of Zingermans, Formaggio Kitchen, Rubiners, or Murray’s. Or for quantity purchase The Rogers Collection has Bruna Alpina brown cow Parmigiano. Call Lou Di Palo in New York +1 212-226-1033 since he doesn’t seem to have a website. His carefully selected quality Parmigiano is first-rate.
All these sources have many other Italian cheeses.
Cheese pairs beautifully with honey. Here are two easy un-recipes.
Slice cheese. Drizzle with honey. Serve.
Slice cheese, heat a non stick pan, cook cheese until melty, turn over, drizzle with honey and turn to caramelize the honey. Serve.
My collection of Sicilian honeys, including a favorite from producer Giuseppe Bonsangue
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